|
|
|
|
|
Pool and Spa Care
|
|
|
When
you first buy or inherit a swimming pool the whole concept of water chemistry can be quite daunting. What
we’ve tried to do here is to simplify the process for understanding how to balance the water of domestic swimming pools. This is by no means a complete bible of
pool care but will hopefully remove some of the myths and clarify the basics. So what do I need to test for in my swimming pool and how often? The following
are the main four elements you must
test for and keep balanced on a regular basis. There are many other elements
that a swimming pool professional can test for and we would advise you to have a full
water test carried out at least once a year to make sure there are no underlying problems.
This is especially important if you use well water. Whenver your swimming pool is being used regularly (normally the summer months but often for longer
periods for heated pools), test for each of these water balancing elements on a weekly basis: It's also useful to test for water hardness every time you top up with water, if there's been heavy
rainfall or at least once per month. See the ideal range guide below. How do I test and what remedial action should I take? Testing There
are many pool and spa water test kits on the market and every brand has different instructions for reading them. Therefore, don’t assume that because you’ve had the same type before you’ll know what
to do…Read and follow the instructions to the letter and you will get accurate
results. For the colour blind or those who do not like reading the colour
charts, there are now poolside electronic water readers on the market which can be used for pool or spa water, some of these
even store past results which can be useful. No domestic
kit is as accurate as the professional systems but they are perfectly acceptable if used correctly. Once
you’ve tested your pool water you should then make adjustments in the following order depending on your test readings
(do not guess). 1. Total Alkalinity, 2. pH, 3. Calcium Hardness 4. Sanitiser. So what do all these swimming pool element do and what pool
chemicals do I need to keep my pool water balanced? Total Alkalinity (TA) Total
alkalinity is considered the key to pool and spa water balance. You will always have problems with keeping your pH balanced
if your total alkalinity is out of line, which is why it is often referred to as pH stabiliser. Should you have a low TA reading
and a low pH reading, adjusting your total alkalinity first. You should then re test – preferably a day later and you
will often find the pH has settled down and no further action needs to be taken, or that you will need far less pH adjuster. Increase
your total alkalinity by adding Sodium Bicarbonate and reduce your total alkalinity by adding Muriatic Acid or Sodium Bisulfate
(Dry Acid). pH Ensuring
your pH is balanced is crucial to the comfort and health of your bathers and also in prolonging the life of your pool or spa
equipment. Too high and your water
will become cloudy, scale will form, there will be a possibility of staining and your sanitiser efficiency drops, also bathers
can experience discomfort from burning eyes and itchy skin. Too low and your water becomes harmful to lungs and eyes, increased sanitiser
dissipation, corrosion and etching of equipment. To increase
pH add Sodium Carbonate (Soda Ash). To reduce your pH you add Sodium Bisulphate (Dry Acid). Most chemical manufacturers often
help by calling them pH plus and pH minus. Water Hardness (often referred to as calcium hardness) This
test is not one you really need to do weekly but once a month is advisable and you should also test whenever you add fresh
water to your pool. If your water hardness level is too low your pool water will become very corrosive, causing damage
to metal pipes and fixtures as well as grout and plaster. If too high your problems will be cloudiness, scaling and staining. To increase your Calcium hardness add Calcium chloride. To reduce your Calcium Hardness the best solution is to partly drain down and add fresh water. Sanitiser So much
can be said about pool and spa sanitisers but the simplistic answer is to use chlorine
for pools - preferably a multi action type and always stabilised chlorine. For spas use bromine. One major myth is that salt systems mean you do not have chlorine in your pool or spa water…..These
systems actually create chlorine by reacting with the salinated water through a process of electrolysis. They are automatic dosing systems, so are a benefit for this reason. However, with any automatic system
they do not negate regular manual testing. Also, the system will require calibrating
at least once a year. Another myth is that chlorine free means chemical free,
again this is rarely the case. The chlorine free options may work for you and
in fact we use one brand for shocking green swimming pools, just read the label and work out if it’s right for your
situation or contact us or your local pool specialist for further advice. The key point to remember is that no matter what sanitiser you choose to use you must
make sure it is always present in your pool or spa water. How can I reduce my need for chemicals in my swimming pool? The best
products for reducing your chemical consumption are to invest in quality filtration mediums such as zeolite and have installed either an ozonator or ioniser or both. If you have one or a combination of the three
systems you will find it simplicity itself to balance your pool water and they should reduce your chemical consumption by
up to 95%. We can provide more information about these types of products if required. And finally…. The final
but very important consideration for keeping your pool water balance is to keep everything
clean. Bacteria needs warmth food and moisture to grow, so warm swimming
pools and spas, if not maintained properly can quickly become health hazards. Regularly
clean the pool water line, rinse or backwash filters and in the case of spas, use a good system flush once or twice per year
to flush out the jets and pipes. But what if things go wrong?.... Even
with the best maintained pools and spas, problems can occasionally occur. Don’t
panic but act quickly. Speak to us or your local pool professional for advice. Please
contact us: info@mandmhottubs.com 0033
(0)4.68.94.26.80 Water Testing - Pool Recommended Parameters All below are measured in Parts Per Million (ppm) pH 7.2 - 7.6 Total Alkalinity 80 – 120 Calcium Hardness (pools) 200 – 400 Free Chlorine (pools) 1 – 3
|
Daily or before each use (but at least every 3 days and in this order) Weekly/Monthly (dependant on usage) Every 2-3 months (dependant on usage) Once or Twice a year (dependant on usage) Water Testing - Recommended Parameters All below are measured in Parts Per
Million (ppm) pH 7.2
- 7.6 Total
Alkalinity 80
- 120 Calcium
Hardness Spas - 150 – 250 Free
Chlorine (spas) 3
– 5 Bromine
(spas) 4
- 6
Q: What is the proper level for Bromine and Chlorine? A:
Bromine should be 5 ppm, Chlorine 3 - 5ppm. Q: What is the correct range for Ph? A:
Ph level should be between 7.2 and 7.6 ppm Q: What is the ideal range for Alkalinity? A:
Alkalinity should be from 100 – 120 ppm Q: Can I switch from a Chlorine disinfectant to Bromine? A:
Yes. You can switch from chlorine to bromine without draining your spa. You may also switch from Bromine to chlorine but the process is more time consuming
and must be done carefully (please call us for more information). Q: How accurate are Test Strips? A:
Test Strips are more than adequate for your garden pool or spa. However, the key with all water testing is to read and
follow the manufactures instructions carefully. If
you are colour blind or find these strip difficult to read, you might want to switch to one of the new digital water readers. The initial outlay of the unit is around €60.00 but then the ongoing costs of
test strips are around the same as normal water test strips. Q: How often should I change the water? A:
The guide-lines for spas in a domestic environment is that the water will need changing every 180 bathes. 1 bathe is 1 person for 30 minutes, so the amount of time is dependant on usage. As a rule of thumb an average family spa will require the water to be changed approximately every 3 months.
Q: Can I use a non-chlorine pool shock in my spa? A:
A non-chlorine spa shock is buffered as to not affect the ph or total alkalinity. The non-chlorine pool shock
will lower the pH and alkalinity if used so is not recommended. Also DO NOT mix chlorine and bromine together. A:
Yes! An ozonator is an effective oxidizer but there must also be chlorine or bromine present at all times. An
ozonator will make your chlorine/bromine last longer. Q: What sanitizer should I use in my spa, bromine or chlorine? A:
It is up to the bathers' preference. Stabilized Chlorine has a stronger odour but it is a very effective sanitizer.
Chlorine will cause colours to fade Bromine will not. Bromine is less irritating to the skin, eyes and nose. Bromine
is also an effective sanitizer when properly administered. Q: How often should I shock my spa water? A:
A spa should be shocked as follows:
Q: Is it OK to add a scent to my hot tub water? A:
Yes, but it MUST be a water based product or scented beads. You should NOT add anything that is oil based to the water. Q: How often should I clean my filters? A:
Pleated Hot tub filters should be thoroughly rinsed once per. It is not necessary and not recommended that a high-pressure
water source be used. Your filters should then be submersed in a filter cleaning solution once per month. Be sure to
rinse the filter thoroughly before installing it back into your spa. You will also prolong the life of your filters
if you have two sets and only put the cleaned set back in your spa when fully dry. Q: I have foam on top of my water, what causes this? A:
Foam is generally present for one or both of two reasons. 1. Bacteria – If you
suspect this is the case (you have a zero sanitiser reading for example), then discontinue use of spa immediately, shock and
balance the water and re-test. You might want to partially or fully drain down the water. 2. Residual detergent (normally
from bathing costumes) – If you're sure this is the likely culprit then you just need to add a small capful of anti-foam. |
|
Enter supporting content here
|
|